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Building the Practice

When you accept the challenge to start your guitar build, a great way to set up your practice is to make a schedule. Break the build down into smaller parts, schedule an amount of time you can commit to everyday, and do it! Build your practice as a professional from the beginning. Pros look for opportunities to practice and do it without fail. 

Here is one of my practices:

If you were to give yourself 9.5 total hours to build your guitar (not including paint or glue drying), and you give yourself 15 minutes a day of shop-time, that guitar will be finished in 38 days. You can even stretch that shop time to 30 minutes to allow time for set up and clean up and still have a solid 15 minutes of working time. If you schedule each day step-by-step and follow through with each session, you will complete the build. If there is a process that seems to be fighting you, you can stop, set up your next shop session and come back fresh and ready. When you have really good productive days maybe you cross two things off the list. 

Another great way to boost your shop productivity is to re-orient your attitude. Things don’t need to be hard. In my opinion, sometimes people choose to make things hard to feel important. I was fortunate to spend many years working in a production guitar shop (SCGC). I learned that fret jobs and many other jobs did not take many hours, days, or weeks. When I started training people for different jobs, my goal was to make the jobs as easy as possible to give everyone a fair shot. I took this approach to my shop. I trained myself to keep the process simple, be efficient with my time, and get the work down. In cases where I am feeling challenged, I try to keep my focus on building the skills to resolve the challenges and get the job done. 

The “cultural trance” around all sorts of things can be very influential and often goes unquestioned. The cultural trance (the overall thoughts, feelings, and behaviors you see in the cultures you are part of) will limit you as an individual, essentially telling you lies that keep you from growing, changing, and evolving. Ever get the feeling that things should be a certain way or stay the same? That comes from those messages received from the cultural trance. An example is luthiers saying things have to be a certain way, otherwise… These characters are more present everyday and louder than ever on social media groups. These groups may have started with the best of intentions, but are often taken over by the naysayers and are no longer helpful (sometimes only hurtful). Filter this sort of commentary out of your life and focus on the things that bring value and inspire you. Focus on the people and sources that are helpful and can act as a mentor or guide for you. 

For information and inspiration, you can check out my YouTube channel.

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Bolt-on vs. Set Neck

Here’s a topic that comes up frequently in groups and forums: bolt-on or set neck? I’m sure, at some point, this question comes up for most builders. Which one is better? Turns out the answer really is a matter of opinion. Many of these common questions in the luthier world are a matter of opinion. It is my opinion that every piece of the puzzle in building an instrument matters, so I will share my findings on the differences between a few different neck joins.

Bolt-on

This is my preferred neck join. I like the idea of being able to replace a neck with the ease of swapping it out. I also find that bolt-on neck guitars tend to have a lot more attack than other types of neck joins. What I have noticed is the bolt-on neck join enhances or leans more towards attack. Sustain can, and will, still vary. Since I am not aware of any device that can add attack where it isn’t already present, I prefer bolt-on necks as I feel they add to this effect.

Set neck (of any sort)

In my experience building set neck guitars of different sorts (Gibson style, PRS style, deep-set necks) the normal ability for attack tends to be exchanged for a softened, cello-like attack. This can give the impression of more sustain or a longer sustain.

Neck through

I noticed these types of neck joins share many characteristics of set necks and give even more emphasis to the sustain.

There will always be really well-made instruments or unicorns that break the mold. My goal as a luthier is to put the emphasis on the tonal characteristics that I can’t buy. For instance, I can buy sustain, or preamps, or add compression to soften attack. But, overall, I tend to let sustain happen naturally. I try not to control what the instrument is going to sound like. In the end, the instruments sound terrific if I l get out of the way and appreciate each instrument for what it is, rather than try to control the end result.

I noticed the effects of different neck joins while building 10-15 guitars a month for a couple of years in my shop. At that point, it was not an experiment I was conducting. Instead, I was trying different things out to see what worked better for a production setting in my shop. I tried all sorts of different materials for necks and bodies as well. These were my personal findings, and I know that it is not a reality for everyone. Everything about music and instruments is subjective. What one person values or loves another person will feel the complete opposite about. In any case, I hope my personal opinions about neck joins has been helpful to you.

You can check out my YouTube channel for tips, tricks, and discussions about luthiery.

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Guitar Set-Up Guide

GUITAR SET-UP

I get a lot of questions about set-up, such as: How do you do it? Do you need special tools? What’s the best way? What do you charge? Since a lot of people are at home working on their instruments, I thought I’d put together a guide. Most of these adjustments can be made with common household tools. If you don’t have these tools, they can easily be purchased at any hardware store.

Tools you will want to have:

-6 inch ruler that measures in at least 32nds of an inch

-screwdriver small enough to adjust the saddle screws at the back of the bridge

-allen wrenches for making truss rod adjustments and saddle adjustments

Now that basic tools are out of the way, we can get into the process. I approach every set-up the same way,  every time. I start at the neck first and make any necessary adjustments. I then move on to the saddle or saddles and make adjustments. Then, I move on to the nut. After I finish work on the nut there might be some back and forth along the instrument with fine tuning because every instrument and player are different.

Neck Adjustments

The first thing you want to do is determine if the neck is straight, in back bow, or showing relief (bowed forward). This is best determined and seen under string tension as the customer hands the instrument to you or as you look at a guitar you own or want to purchase. Next, I ask about or check for high frets. A fret rocker helps, but is not necessary. You can simply play each fret to test it out, unless the customer has already informed you of problematic areas. Then, I remove strings if necessary, put the neck into a straight as possible position, and begin my work. At this point, I level, crown, and polish the frets to deal with uneven frets if present. Then, I clean the fingerboard and re-string if needed. If new strings are not wanted or needed, I simply put the neck into an as-straight-as-possible position by adjusting the truss rod (usually turning clockwise to tighten and back bow the neck, or counter-clockwise to add relief and loosen the truss rod nut). These aren’t big turns on the truss rod nut, nor do they require excessive force. If it’s your first time, start with 1/8 turns which will seem more like clicks. At this point, it’s a good idea to dress the fret ends if they are sticking out of the fingerboard in any way. With inexpensive guitars or well-played guitars, sometimes a level, crown, and polish is a good measure in general. With all of these adjustments made, the work on the neck is finished.

Saddle adjustments:

Before we can make any adjustments to the saddles we need to restring if necessary. The saddles are where we will adjust the intonation and string height over the neck (action). With strings in place, tune to the desired tuning. Then, adjust the action by raising or lowering the strings to the players liking. For the lowest action, I use my ruler for guidance and bring each string down to 2/32nds of an inch. This is measured from the bottom of the string to the top of the fret closest to where the neck meets the body (usually the 15th-17th fret).  Next, I tune to pitch and check intonation by playing the open string and tuning to pitch and fretting the 12th fret or 24th fret (if it has one). In order for the guitar to be intonated, the pitches need to match. If they don’t match, the saddle needs to be moved forward or backward and retuned until the pitches match. Once intonation is achieved, you can check playability and comfort. If you require lower action then you can lower each string until it starts to buzz and then raise it until it stops buzzing. Bigger strings require more space to move, so a bit of relief in the neck can be made at this point to accommodate this movement. Neck relief on the bass side of the neck is beneficial to extended range instruments and can be adjusted via the bass side truss rod. After you have made all of your adjustments, check the intonation once again. 

Nut adjustments

The nut action is the last thing I adjust. I use nut files to lower the slots, but in a pinch a small triangle file or needle nose files can be used to adjust the height of the nut slots. Having a low nut height helps make the first position more comfortable to play. If you don’t want to or don’t need to make these adjustments, then you can stop after the saddle adjustments. 

In my experience, there is no blanket set-up or “correct” set-up. Each instrument requires slightly different adjustments. Each player has slightly different needs. It’s important to remember or notice these needs and make note of them in the case that you have to make corrections to the instrument for the player. It is helpful to have some of the specialized tools (available on the market), but not totally necessary. Being able to do your own set-ups will greatly benefit you. The process is fairly simple, if you allow it to be. There is always great value in taking your instrument to a professional that you trust, especially if you get stuck.

This article is meant to be a guide.  If you have any questions please contact me: Perry Vasquez

The Set-Up Workshop can be done via Zoom or in-person.

You can also check out my YouTube channel for tips and tricks.

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"My neck doesn't fit my body..."

I ran a very successful repair operation for a long time when I lived in California. I worked on many parts-casters put together by clients of mine, purchased from other parties, and sometimes I assembled random parts brought to me by clients. The common denominator these parts-casters shared were necks that didn’t quite fit the bodies. In addition, with the rise in inexpensive kit-guitar sales, the question of what to do in this situation comes up very frequently. Even necks and bodies coming from well-known, quality sources don’t always fit together properly. Unfortunately, there is no universal neck size and perfectly matching neck pocket to help out newcomers.

I read and hear these issues and it gets my gears turning.

The Unga BANG build is my solution. Check it out in my YouTube video.

Each one of these kits is built to order and made by my hands, in my shop. Contact me (Perry Vasquez) if you’d like one, as they aren’t currently listed on my website.

In my luthiery builds at Unga Guitars, each neck is fit to each body, one-by-one. I don’t have universal neck pockets or generic templates for any of my builds, or even my BANG build kit. I go off of specs provided by me by my customers to give them the most quality custom build or kit-build I can.

The Body And Neck Guitar (BANG) kit gives you a quality neck and body that were made for each other. With this kit, there is no need to invest in a whole wood shop. If you are wanting to get into ACTUALLY MAKING GUITARS (!!!), this is a great starting point.

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Building The Shop

A very frequent question I get personally and read in online groups is: “What tools do I buy first?”

Let me first say that I didn’t buy all my tools in this order, or all at once. I acquired my tools in my shop over many years as I needed them or as I came across them. You can get by with minimal tools to build guitars, such as hand tools. These are the tools I recommend for a small production shop, placed in the order I recommend buying them. The tools listed are the bigger shop tools I use regularly.

Note: I did not put a CNC machine on my list. I have no experience with them in my shop, but have utilized them in other shops.

TOOLS

1) 12” Disc Sander

I like the Harbor Freight disc sander. I have had mine for about 15 years. This tool can be used to make other tools, modify tools, make nuts and saddles, shape bodies and necks, and many other things. I use my disc sander almost everyday in my shop and I use it for every build .

2) Spindle Sander

Another Harbor Freight tool I use for every build. It’s a great value. I use them for shaping the waist and curved areas on bodies, necks, and hardware that I make.

3) Drill Press

I recently replaced my small bench-top drill press with this floor-standing model. If you have the room, I recommend a floor-standing drill press - the bigger the better. I use this tool for drilling holes, but mostly with a safety planer when I am making necks. You can also use different attachments such as buffing arbors, spindle sanders, etc..

4) Band Saw

I have a 10 in Craftsmen. I really like it. The size can be limiting if you’re trying to re-saw wide boards. When purchasing a bandsaw, the bigger the better in my opinion - but for the price, a 10” will be enough for most small shops. Blades can be tricky to find locally, so expect to be ordering online or getting them made locally by a saw shop.

5) Router Table

This tool was a game-changer. It made routing truss rod channels, body round overs, template work, edge jointing, and making small parts so easy.

6) Jointer

Being able to glue up body and neck blanks is essential. I recommend the widest and biggest jointer, with the longest tables. A short bench top jointer is not very helpful with long pieces of wood

OTHER HELPFUL TOOLS

  • chop saw or miter saw

  • scroll saw

  • routers of all sorts

  • dremel

  • orbital and palm sanders

  • shop vac

  • planer

Contact me, Perry Vasquez, with any questions.

Check out my YouTube channel!

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Fretting Tools

Here is a list of the tools I use for doing fret jobs. I don’t use all these tools for every fret job, but sometimes I do. What is not listed are modified tools I use. If anyone is interested in how to modify a tool or wants to purchase a tool I have modified, please let me know: Perry Vasquez.

I haven't added the fret leveler I make to my website yet. If interested please email me.

Click on the tools below to see descriptions and where you can buy them.

Mill File

Sandpaper Roll 220

Double-Sided Tape 1 Inch

Sharpie

18 Inch Ruler

Fret Trapezoid: Email me...

Fret End Nippers

Fret Slot Cleaning Tool

Fret wire bender: Email me...

Arbor Press

Fret Press Caul

Fret Press Inserts

Fretting Hammer

Neck Support

Micro Mesh

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Finish Work

There are so many things in the world that we accept as truths, especially when we hear these things from respectable sources (teachers, parents, friends, family). These ideas can become beliefs, meaning instead of having our own experience with something, we choose to take someone else’s word as truth. Many times, these beliefs are never questioned no matter how ridiculous they are. 

When I attended Roberto-Venn School of Luthiery, we were told lacquer finishes are the standard of the industry and everything else is sub-par. In my opinion, lacquer finishes are a pain in the ass. My approach to things I don’t understand or find difficult is to make opportunities to get more experience points doing these things. The challenge in finding the opportunities to do more finish work was environments and equipment. The environment challenge is my shop is at my house, and always has been. I have pets, family, and neighbors who don’t really want to be smelling paint fumes every evening or weekend. Lacquer is also fairly toxic. Along with those challenges, there is the long cure-time that can really slow down a build. Then there was a need for a dedicated place to paint - trying to spray paint in a room filled with dust is a silly idea. Spray equipment was also going to be necessary. One of my steps forward was to invest in a shop vacuum to clean up and keep dust levels under control. I also started batching my work, eventually, piece by piece. I acquired an air compressor, some spray guns, and even created a small spray booth to paint my guitars. Until I had acquired those tools, I had guitars that lingered around waiting to be finished. I then learned about hand-applied finishes and I realized some of these finishes are super easy to apply, look great, and most important, they feel amazing on the finished guitar. Through this exploration, I learned that I enjoy being as close to the wood of the instrument as possible and was able to achieve this through the use of thin finishes and finely sanded surfaces.  By the time I had collected the gear and figured out how to manage my workspace, I had fallen in love with a completely different finishing process and product. 

When executed properly, any finish will enhance the beauty of what’s under it. Our goal as luthiers is to do our best to prepare these surfaces. I strongly recommend experimentation with different finishing products. Don’t let the “this is how we do it” of guitar culture determine how you make your guitars. Luthiery is an art form and can be very individual if you allow it to be. If you have any questions or want to schedule a consult or workshop please contact me.

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What makes a great setup?

What Makes A Great Set-Up?

Let’s start with a common definition: a guitar set-up is a way of fine-tuning the various parts of the guitar to work together in order to optimize the playability. This is true, but not the whole picture. In my experience, what is commonly left out by many is the human interaction, also known as customer service. Even if you are working on your own guitar, you are working for someone. In my opinion, the road to executing a stellar set-up is 1) asking the player what they want, 2) observing how the player uses their instrument, and 3) utilizing the information gained in your set-up choices, and 4) having a solid understanding of how to make the appropriate adjustments to the instrument. If you add this observation of and interaction with the player to the set-up, you can more easily bring the player and their instrument into harmony - which is a desirable outcome, and, to me, what defines a “perfect set-up”.

A set-up for a guitar is similar to a tune-up for a bicycle or a car. You get it done as needed. Sometimes, little maintenance things come up that need to be addressed, sometimes not. Whatever the case may be, you do the work yourself or get the guitar worked on in order to keep it working - and to keep that harmonious relationship between player and instrument. Some of this maintenance might include making adjustments to action at the bridge, to the truss rod, to intonation, and to the nut height. I consider these adjustments “the basics”. By making these adjustment to any instrument, you can dial-in the playability and get one step closer to the “sweet spot” of optimal playability.

In the past, I noticed myself being rigid around the job of set-up. It is true that there is an efficient way to approach each instrument and an order of operations that is most helpful. That doesn’t not mean that there’s only one way to approach every set-up. In fact, I found myself running into the same issue on different guitars - for example: “what’s with all this fret buzz?” If I did my set-up by-the-book and to the likings of the customer, why is there still fret buzz? I was asking the questions, but I was not listening to the answers or common denominator: fret buzz. On occasion, I suggested a level, crown, and polish in addition to a set-up at an additional cost - because that’s a usual solution for uneven frets causing fret buzz. Many times I was met with budget issues or customers not being interested in the additional investment. They wanted the set-up done, and that was it. I even ended up losing some customers, even though I was suggesting a job that needed to be done. In these cases, the customer did not care about any other job that may have been needed beyond their request of “set-up”. The feeling was that they thought I was a used car salesman using a sales tactic instead of what I really was - which was a professional looking to do the best job possible to prevent further work on the guitar and to satisfy the customer.

To summarize, if you’re following a set-up guide in a book or online, it is important to know that the success of the set-up is an accumulation of factors from the work done on the guitar in the past, the kind of guitar it is, climate, and the way the player has played it or taken care of it. A set-up IS NOT a catch-all fix. Other work may need to be done on the guitar. In my experience, we have a culture amongst players and luthiers that believes a set-up is a mechanical job that will readily fix most issues. This is perhaps why my customers were not open to hearing about the other jobs that needed to be done for the guitar to function properly at that time, and in the future. It is my belief that we need to re-educate ourselves and our customers about what a set-up can do, and cannot do - and that taking care of their guitar and having optimal playability is the goal. Also, a set-up is an art and does not have a set formula that can be applied across the board. This is also why finding someone who is qualified to work on your guitar is very important. Otherwise, a machine could apply a set-up. This is not the case.

Let me tell you a story about why fret jobs and set-up are an important pair. One day I was working on a build at my shop. I was finishing the fret job and moving into the set-up and I realized both these jobs are related. In fact, the playability relies on these two jobs. Without a solid fret job the guitar will not play well in any circumstance, no matter what adjustments you make. If you can’t make the proper set-up adjustments it doesn’t matter how solid your fret job is. To take it a step further, look at the other ways we work on a guitar - every piece of the puzzle matters. When all these little jobs are executed in a solid manner,  all needed adjustments (done in the set-up) tend to fall right into place. 

I have found that some clients have a tendency to want one guitar to be another guitar. Maybe they like the sound or feel of another guitar. Sometimes, due to poor guitar work in the past, the customer is dissatisfied with their guitar and they don’t understand which adjustments are possible and not possible. After these realizations, I decided to do a level, crown, and polish as part of my set-up. In all actuality it meant an additional 5 to 10 minutes added on to the set-up and always insured that I could execute the best possible setup for the player. In fact, I was able to notice other issues and take action to be the most helpful to my clients. It was a win-win in my eyes. I now approach every set-up ready to do a level crown and polish on the frets as part of the set-up as well as listen to the client and their specific needs. I also keep my time for set-ups to within 1 hour. Most of that time is actually spent talking with and listening to the client.  I also ask that anyone in need of a set-up stick around for the hour-long appointment so I can make sure the instrument is dialed-in to their needs. This also gives them time to see the process and get to know me - which builds their confidence in my skills and entrusting their guitars to my care. In my experience, a set-up should not take longer than an hour. This gives enough time for the customer to let me know what they need, for me to assess the instrument, work on the instrument, and test that the customer’s needs in playability have been met. It is also a respect for my time and my cost per hour to keep set-ups to this time frame.

When building your own guitars, it is easy to notice where improvements can be made and make them, or realize they need to be made by someone else or with the help of someone else. It can be a little tricky when you are working on a guitar someone else built or worked on because you don’t know the instrument in and out or its history the way you would if you made it. In fact, sometimes it seems like detective work at a crime scene.  If you are willing to be in the moment with what is in front of you instead of being rigid to what the books say, the answers are often very clear. You can see what needs to be done. These are the skills I encourage and cultivate in my students. I encourage anyone building their luthiery skills to work at being the most efficient worker they can be, and open up to the art of luthiery as a craft. Time yourself, strive to improve your work, and build your practice by practicing! Be honest with your clients and don’t take on work that you are not comfortable with. Last of all, take action and do what is needed to ensure your work is the best possible quality at that time, your clients will appreciate you for it .

Top Secret P.S.: I approach any set-up by making adjustments in the order of: neck, saddle, nut. I have found that if I complete my work to each section in that order my set-ups come together very smoothly.  For an individualized learning experience on how to improve your set-up skills, schedule an online or in-person setup workshop with me: phone, email.

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